Meet GFF Talent, Tamsin Bruce, a fashion design graduate from Arts University Bournemouth. Tamsin’s final project is called Ward/9 and is inspired by her experience of having a brain cyst as a child. She explores how the brain perceives information and the memories of her episodes of epilepsy and MRI scans are translated into a 7 piece womenswear collection.
“Nothing is a clear picture until a full story is told; a blur is created; we have to look deeper in order to know the fine points.,” explains Tamsin. “Bold sophisticated colour is utilised, inspired by EEG imagery, incorporating different levels and tones of blues and yellows parallel to a strong use of monochrome.” Read more about her work and plans below!
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
With an A level textiles background and little sewing skills, the first term of my university experience was a steep learning curve with many new skills to acquire, as well as adapting to living in a new place and on my own. I learnt many new technical skills on digital clothing softwares, dye room techniques and tailoring throughout my degree, but the whole experience, including moving to London for a 3-month internship, taught me that I can overcome challenges ahead however difficult they are.
It has been hard throughout the three years to have confidence in my work and in myself. I have only been doing solely fashion for 3 years at university, so it has taken a while for me to find my most effective way of working and ultimately a style/ handwriting. I have learnt to encourage myself and challenge myself design wise. My internship really helped me with my independence and confidence not only in myself but in the area of fashion design.
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
My final major project Ward/9 is inspired by how the brain perceives information. I focused on the brain cyst I had as a child and the episodes of epilepsy and countless MRI scans it caused. Nothing is a clear picture until a full story is told; a blur is created; we have to look deeper in order to know the fine points. Bold sophisticated colour is utilised, inspired by EEG imagery, incorporating different levels and tones of blues and yellows parallel to a strong use of monochrome. This colour palette compliments the heavy graphic use within the collection.
What form does your final project take?
My FMP outcome will take the form of a 7-piece womenswear collection with a childrenswear outfit included. Designs are developed from hospital gown drapes and collages, creating asymmetric, unorthodox silhouettes. A synergy of my childhood experiences and contemporary design produces statement shapes. Due to Covid-19 my final outcomes have been CLO3D realisations of my outfits rather than made garments. I have made my garments on the 3D clothing software CLO3D as a fully rendered image to show the final product. Originally, I had intended to produce a photoshoot at Peckham Levels, London, highlighting my clothing’s shape and colour with a bold block colour background, but now have translated this vision through digital drawing and CLO3D.
What materials have you used and how did you source them?
Prints and materials are inspired by the repetition and blur of transmitted light the brain both receives and tracks. Most materials I bought in Paris, which I then manipulated and changed using screen-printing, over-dyeing and DeVore techniques. Brain shapes and scans are the key element alongside medical text and scales for pattern with a sporty edge in sculptural spacer mesh, graphic DeVore and an MRI scanned polka dot in high resolution digital colour and shape.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas and what have you learnt along the way?
Initially I wanted to explore the insides of the brain in general, exploring neurons, magnetic energy from MRI scanning and how the brain adapts, with early ideas including magnetic fastenings and hidden pockets. However, looking more closely within my project I wanted to make it more personal and reflected more deeply into my own hospital experience. From there I used hospital gown drapes to create my designs which were sculptural/voluminous and didn’t fit with my early ideas. My concept evolved further to one not knowing the true story without looking at the finer details. My use of print and DeVore reflect a blur, not a clear picture from a far, then closer and with transparency revealing the true print and information. To achieve the look I wanted, I created a number of toiles to gain the accurate measurements needed within my complex cutting to produce the desired effect.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
I want to put across the message of no-one knows a person’s true story til told, so we shouldn’t be quick to judge; there is always a story within. Within today’s day and age social media is a big part of most people’s lives; posting ‘perfect’ pictures, showing a snapshot only of their lives. People can be quick to judge and comment negative things even though they have no idea what that individual is going through or has going on within their lives.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I look at fashion as a way for people to gain confidence and be comfortable in being an individual. Designing and making clothes to express someone’s individuality has always been important to me. I have explored the avenue of adaptive clothing in my dissertation and inclusive wear within a competition entry both inspired by my grandfather living with polio, wearing only black boots, trousers to fit over his calliper and shirts to match the formal wear through his life. When exploring adaptive clothing I researched into the influential parts of the fashion industry that has helped develop adaptive and inclusive wear as an option for consumers.
Digital Fashion is also an element of the industry I am passionate about, connecting fashion and technology together to create beautiful 3dimensional outcomes, whether that be a part of exciting advertisement or sustainable design through the production of garments digitally using softwares like CLO3D and Lectra. In my opinion it is the future of design and manufacture; sketches are a great skill and still is a beautiful part of the industry, but advances in technology has allowed the fashion industry to expand its customer base, skill set and aesthetics.
To make quality pieces to follow the motto of buy less, choose well and those that survive ‘trends’ considers sustainability. Re-use of clothing can contribute to sustainability, one of my passions for my own wardrobe is looking through the treasure throve that is a charity shop. Sustainability is a complex area however it is clear that it needs to be in conscious when designing today. I would love to have a positive impact on any part within the fashion industry whether its sustainability, digital fashion or inclusivity, I would love to be involved in a brand that makes quality garments bespoke and one that finds innovative ways to create products.
What is your plan once you finish your BA?
Once I finish my degree my hope is to relocate to London. For me I see this as a place for bigger and brighter opportunities, to adapt to a new place, overcoming changes and meeting new people. To be able grow career experience is my goal, gaining new skills and involvement within the fashion industry. My internship in London indicated to me it was a great location for fashion with its long list of quality suppliers and surroundings for inspiration like art galleries, museum’s and markets for example. In difficulty of finding my dream job I will find a job to work through, gaining money to start my journey.
Within my spare time, which now deadlines over and Covid-19 I have quite a lot, I am doing what I love, designing, digital drawing, growing ideas and being inspired to improve upon my portfolio. Using Instagram as a platform after completing my hand ins has been great, to be able to encourage my class mates and peers who have also graduated and see their amazing work inspires me and shows to me that as creatives we are always supporting each other for the next big step, encouraging me in this current situation.