It’s Copenhagen Fashion Week, and we’ve been following along with all the action — a huge selection of presentations, shows and ‘Small Talks Big Conversations’ discussions are being live streamed on the CPHFW website now!
This morning, Sarah Sozzani Maino from Vogue Talents, Ida Petersson, Buying Director of Browns Fashion and Mariasole Pastori, Talent Acquisition Expert for Bottega Veneta, joined host Ane Lynge-Jorlén to discuss emerging talent, and the support that institutions and the industry at large is and could be providing emerging design talent. They shared some great advice on portfolios, how to stand out, what brands are looking for and more!
Below, check out some key takeaways from the talk.
Design is important, but a message is crucial
Sarah Maino has been finding and supporting emerging fashion talents for over a decade in her role. Her advice for young designers is to have a clear message and meaning behind your work. “The message is important because it’s not just about the clothes, but what’s behind the clothes that is interesting,” she said. “We don’t need that many more clothes on the market but we need messages and change.” She believes that quality over quantity is more important that ever, and that young designers should build the most responsible brand possible this way.
“The new generation has the opportunity to be seen for what they are — they have a blank page to make their own manifesto,” says Maino. Indeed, communicating your message is a really important skill to learn in order to catch the attention of employers. Pastori says that 10 years ago, it wasn’t heard of to hire through social media, but now brands have a huge platform to share their work. “Put forward your personal references and influences to walk the viewer through your story and process,” she said.
Hiring managers are looking for personality, collaboration and a point of difference
“Personality is extremely important,” says Mariasole Pastori from Bottega Veneta. “It’s about how you promote your work and how you’re perceived as a designer.” Pastori says that on top of letting your personality shine, it’s equally necessary to have the interpersonal skills to be able to work in a team. Very rarely will fashion designers work entirely alone in the industry, so hiring managers look to see that you can work collaboratively too. “Have something to say, but also be able to work in a team or collective,” she said.
Ida Petersson from Browns says that when she looks to work with new labels, individuality is key. “New talent needs to have a point of difference from the luxury heritage brands,” she said. “Their collection can be something completely different, it doesn’t need to follow trends. We don’t want to see another version of Bottega Veneta because we’re lucky enough to already stock Bottega. We want something unique.”
Your portfolio should hold a mirror to you as a designer
Your portfolio is one of the most powerful tools you have to show employers who you are as a designer, so use it wisely. “Your portfolio should be a mirror of yourself,” said Maino. “Make it personal — what is fascinating when I see students’ portfolios is that you can see where they have come from, their influences and what inspires them.”
She warns that schools shouldn’t be too heavily involved in the creation and vision of your portfolio because she can spot it a mile away. “Sometimes the schools can give a little too much influence, but really they should just give you the tools — from there it’s all up to you. Be as creative as you can while at school because once you leave, you’ll be making compromises through your career while working for others.”
Pastori says that when you’re applying for a specific role with a brand, understanding that brand thoroughly, and offering something new, is a great sign that you’ve done your homework. “Understand the brand’s codes and heritage, but show that you have your own direction and can add a little extra,” she advises.
Take your time to set up your brand
If you’re going down the route of building your own brand, the advice from Ida Petersson is: take your time. “Logistically and financially, if you can’t set up the back end of your business you’re setting yourself up for failure,” she says. A great design aesthetic doesn’t count for much if you can’t manage the business side of your brand.
Additionally, Ida says that emerging brands should look to work with small, family run manufacturers rather than huge factories that supply the world’s biggest brands. “Don’t be obsessed about working with prestigious factories. You’ll be put to the end of the priority list in the production line if you’re in a factory that works with LVMH brands, for example. Find a family run factory who can support you.”
All images are from Copenhagen Fashion Week.