Meet Eloise Hamer, Birmingham City University Catwalk Show Winner at GFW22. Eloise studied Fashion Design at Birmingham City University.
How do you feel about winning a GFW22 award?
I was always unsure of which creative industry I belonged to and wanted to work in. I chose Fashion Design because I loved the combination of creative design and technical manufacturing. Winning this award has reassured me that the choice I made to pursue a career in Fashion was the right one, and that my months of hard work had been recognised.
What was the inspiration starting point for your award-winning FMP?
I am inspired by stories of powerful women and female characters. My FMP “Girls to the Front” follows the narrative of 1990’s Riot Grrrls fighting to reclaim girlishness through challenging societal norms. This is mirrored in the deconstructive/ reconstructive nature of my graduate collection. There is a distinct collaged and patchwork style which is a nod to the handmade, physical and photocopied zines and posters abundant in Riot Grrrl literature.
What skills did you learn and develop during the production of your FMP?
Due to the pandemic largely affecting my first and second year of study, the only garment I had made previous to this collection was a white shirt at the start of my first year. Therefore, in order to be able to produce 4 entire outfits for my FMP I learned a great deal regarding garment construction and textile application in a short amount of time. During this process I learned to trust my abilities and instincts and to be confident, whilst knowing when to ask for extra support from my lecturers and the wonderful technician staff at BCU. The deconstructed aesthetic of my collection allowed me to learn and develop new ways of pattern cutting; working on the stand and adapting patterns from existing garments to create my desired shapes.
What were some challenges that you faced in producing your FMP and how did you overcome these?
Creating my textile to have a multi-dimensional effect was one of the biggest challenges I faced when producing this collection. I wanted to emulate the bright colours and graphics used in Riot Grrrl zines and manifestos, especially the brightly coloured paper used to print hundreds of copies of their posters. I removed heart shapes from the vinyl using laser cutting before it was cut into strips and applied to my fabric in a distorted tartan inspired print. I trialled many different methods of layering up the vinyl and different colour combinations before settling on my final colour palette and patterns. I then developed these by including rainbow reflective vinyl to add extra dimension to my prints.
Another challenge I faced was constructing my 3D heart shapes using foam, I had many failed attempts at cutting out my shapes from the foam using scissors, electric bread knives etc… I overcame this by collaborating with the water jet cutting technician who helped me to cut out my heart shapes for my garments.
Are there any messages or major themes in your FMP that you want people to take away? If so, how did you choose to communicate with them?
The main message I want people to take from my collection is to question different garment types and why they are traditionally assigned to specific genders. Within my collection I took garments traditionally aligned with menswear and reworked them into more feminine silhouettes to create my womenswear collection. I used drawcords and elastics to create more fitted shapes and to make them adjustable.
What is an aspect of the fashion industry that you want to help improve or have a positive impact on?
I would want to improve the adaptability of garments that are designed and produced within the fashion industry. Allowing clothing to be worn several different ways and being made to suit and fit different body types can make the industry more accessible to everyone and can prolong the lifespan of the textiles.
What form does your FMP take? Is it a collection of clothing, book, presentation, etc? If relevant, how did you source the materials for the project?
My FMP comprises of a 4-outfit collection. I sourced my base fabrics such as my cotton drill, denim and poplin from local fabric shops in Birmingham and sourced offcuts of vinyl to create the fabrics for my collection.
What are your plans for the near future (further study/ internship/ work?) now that you've finished your BA?
I am about to start my dream job as a graduate fashion designer at a prestigious fashion company. I want to continue to develop my skills as a designer and learn more about the industry.
