Meet Ebony Barrett, the winner of the Fashion Styling & Creative Direction Award at GFW21! Ebony’s final major project is all about reclaiming stereotypes through an editorial and short film. “Black people are demonised for archaic stereotypes (the jezebel, the black best friend, the angry black woman) whilst stolen from for cool new ‘trends',” says Ebony. “My project focuses on black women reclaiming these features and turning them into superpowers.” Read more about Ebony’s work below!
How do you feel about winning an award at GFW21?
Honestly, I am so beyond grateful for being recognised by GFW and the foundation out of so many incredible graduates. I really put my heart and soul into this project so to be awarded is just the icing on the cake. Trusting in my vision has granted me so much success and fortune so I am very proud of myself and especially over the pandemic.
What is the most valuable thing you have learnt at university?
From the hardships of going through budget cuts and losing all of our original tutors on my course as well as covid, the most important thing I have learnt is resilience. My best friends and I have learnt that no project is possible without teamwork and having a good support system. Even if the course isn't what you expected, the people and networking opportunities are what's worth it in the long run.
What was the starting point of inspiration for your final project?
For so long, it has been 'acceptable' for black women to not be the default, for them not to be the main character. Black people are demonised for archaic stereotypes (the jezebel, the black best friend, the angry black woman) whilst stolen from for cool new ‘trends'. My project focuses on black women reclaiming these features and turning them into superpowers. Diversity and representation are far from perfect especially in the media and Sweet Shop Six owns the insecurities black women have been made to feel.
What form does your FMP take?
My FMP is an editorial along with a short film introducing the characters of Sweet Shop Six as if they were to have their own Netflix show or movie franchise. Also, I created a fold-out zine/poster of the Sweet Shop Six for little black girls to look up to powerful black women in their prime too.
How has it evolved from your initial ideas and what have you learnt along the way?
My initial ideas came about from me looking in on my own character and seeing what sets me apart from other creatives. I explored my upbringing, my heritage, my family and my interests and I was most inspired by looking at my style evolution and how that was parallel to the way I would style my hair. From here I delved into how black hair is not represented in kawaii fashion and how black girls can also look cute as much as society forgets about us.
From there I knew I wanted to create a project that spoke to the underrepresented kawaii black girls like myself who live on the edges of society and aren't spoken about too much. I am heavily inspired by the works of Melanie Martinez and her exploration of childhood in a pastel universe. I wanted to take the influences I held from K-12 (Melanie's film) into a piece of art that felt personal and relevant to me. In an interview, she spoke about how she created absolutely everything herself, from the costumes to the hair ideas, the script and of course the soundtrack.
I really marvelled at this and knew I wanted to fully creatively direct my own K-12 in the signature Ebony way. I've learnt to be patient with myself first and foremost and am continuing to instil this wisdom when the imposter syndrome sets in. I was working on this project for a total of eight months and explored every avenue I could have, to execute my vision as accurate as my brain portrayed. I have also learnt that collaborating with other creatives brings me so much joy and so much more fulfilment - having several creatives all working for your vision in their own element is such a special feeling. To know they have dedicated their time to ensure they also execute it perfectly - I'll never get over how that feels.
What are the messages and themes behind your project that you want people to take away? Do explore any topics like diversity, sustainability or politics in your work?
Sweet Shop Six addresses the racial stereotypes black women have been boxed into for centuries. To see black women in such hyper-feminine garments is a statement in itself because of the angry, aggressive facade placed upon black personalities. My pain is my power and my experiences shape the way my art is delivered and the canvas in which I use to produce that image. I have lived through racism and been isolated for dressing kawaii as a black female. As someone who doesn't take life too seriously, my work is always lighthearted and as heavy and raw as the topics I address are, I always aim to focus on a solution and making people feel positive from their differences.
I wanted Sweet Shop Six to also reference my childhood and what a little black girl would love to see right now, hence the Sailor Moon and Powerpuff Girls references. In popular culture, it has been seen numerous times where black actors and the characters they play, have been disregarded because of lazy storytelling.
For example, in 2017 a fourth black Powerpuff girl was introduced; she had daddy issues and an attitude problem. What appeared as a step in a progressive direction for black storytelling was simply a reinforcement of the stereotypes. Sweet Shop Six reclaims this typecasting and literally creates superheroes that use their 'nappy' hair, large lips and wide hips to change the world whilst setting the standard for pop culture’s depiction of black representation.
Netflix live-action reboots of childhood cartoon television favourites such as Winx Club, Powerpuff girls (sent back to pre-production because it was so bad) have missed the mark when it comes to opportunities to tell black stories or simply create a fashion statement. Sweet Shop Six leaves no crumbs and honours WOC as Netflix should have with these reboots.
What’s an aspect of the fashion industry that you’re passionate about fixing or having a positive impact on?
I am passionate to help set the standard for black storytelling and showcasing black art. I have my own publication BonBon which is a magazine all about Harajuku fashion and making the subculture more accessible to cute enthusiasts in the West. Each issue has focused on prejudice within the kawaii fashion community - Issue 2 spoke on how black people aren't shown enough in Harajuku, pastel fashion. Issue 3 was dedicated to body positivity and loving your body through the outlet of Harajuku fashion. Issue 4 celebrated the LGBTQIA community and how they have shaped Japanese fashion too.
I aim to harness the power of cuteness and instil that within all of my work. It is so often viewed as childish or immature but it doesn't st people's attention is held by a cute image. I aim to blur gender binaries in my work as well as dismantle racial stereotypes. I am seen as a super positive person by my friends and family so I feel that that finds a way to translate into my work. For example, Sweet Shop Six reclaimed the stereotypes of black women instead of completely denouncing them, basically seeing them in a positive light instead.
Now that you have finished your degree, what's your plan?
Right now I am just trying to catch up on some sleep and do things I love that don't involve furthering my career. A degree is mentally, emotionally and physically draining - especially from what 2021 graduates have had to battle through. I want to enjoy my last summer of freedom before the work grind officially begins and reflect on and celebrate my achievements in the meantime.
I want to start assisting photographers I admire and learn from their practice in order to further my own. I currently work in retail and my goal is to be out by the end of July hopefully and on a part-time, freelance path that challenges my creativity and inspires me in the long run.
My uni friends and I have been grinding since the get-go as our university was not the most supportive, so it's just a case of continuing that work ethic and following our dreams. I believe in us and know we will thrive when the time comes.