Meet Marina Mendes, University of Derby Catwalk Show Winner at GFW22. Marina studied Fashion Design at University of Derby.
How do you feel about winning a GFW22 award?
Very proud and excited! This experience makes me want to push my boundaries even more. It was a pleasure being part of the event.
What was the inspiration starting point for your award-winning FMP?
The inspiration starting-point was natural elements - earth, fire, water and air. Researching and comparing how we've got them and what we've done to them, final designs mostly took inspiration from oil spills after discovering pictures of birds trapped in them. Thus, these helpless animals served as a symbol for the suffering planet.
What skills did you learn and develop during the production of your FMP?
For the first time, I had the opportunity to choose in which direction I truly want my project to go. It gave me the boost to try techniques I never did before, such as knitting and quilting. Earlier I only dreamed of creating my fabric, but rarely had a chance to do it. Today, I see that everything is possible if you work hard enough to accomplish it. I learned a lot from every step of the process. It made me realise more things about myself both as a creative and as a person.
What were some challenges that you faced in producing your FMP and how did you overcome these?
There were a few smaller challenges during the development and production of my FMP. Regardless, each of these contributed to the outcome of my collection in one way or another. I always say that everything happens for a reason. Therefore, I wouldn't look back as long as I learned something from it. There is no progress without challenges.
Are there any messages or major themes in your FMP that you want people to take away? If so, how did you choose to communicate with them?
By transferring the heaviness of the situation onto the models, the Cenotaph woman is the carrier of the tangled situation, just like the bird, nature, planet, or any destroyed once alive part of the globe. Consequently, she spreads the message and a story about timeless, smartly created garments that a person connects with and wears from season to season. In conclusion, she reminds us that without acting now, the globe might become a massive Cenotaph.
What is an aspect of the fashion industry that you want to help improve or have a positive impact on?
I aspire to contribute to the importance of responsiveness in fashion, from the production itself to the way it is worn. As part of this influential industry, the new generation of designers must contribute to the system of slow fashion.
What form does your FMP take? Is it a collection of clothing, book, presentation, etc? If relevant, how did you source the materials for the project?
"Cenotaph" is an AW22/23 fashion collection. Consisting of four outfits, dark and monotonous garments put the focus on surface design. It tells the story of life and its superficiality. Sustainability was the focus right from the start. Thus, materials played a huge part in my design outcome. With knit in mind, I discovered recycled t-shirt yarn. It turned out to be a game changer for my work. Remnants of tape yarn and luxurious jersey I found around fashion and textile studios at the University of Derby also helped me a lot. When it comes to quilted coat and puffed gilet, I made sure to use eco-blend wadding made of recycled cotton and polyester. Other fabrics were not sustainably sourced. Consequently, high-tech nylon, 100% melton wool and 100% DK cotton yarn were inevitable in the production of the collection. Here, sustainability lies in the quality, timeless pieces and craftsmanship.
What are your plans for the near future (further study/ internship/ work?) now that you've finished your BA?
After discovering knitting and crochet, I learned I want to comprehend and experiment with them more, specialising in these areas. Therefore, my next step is the Creative Knitwear Design masters in Italy. I'm very excited!
